As warm weather approaches, the DIY bug will begin to bite millions of Americans, who will start thinking about backyard projects that they can tackle in their spare time. Additions to outdoor living space like patios and decks are popular choices, but many people don’t realize how easy it is to build an outdoor wall. The most important part of any wall is a solid footing and building one for a concrete block wall is no different than any other type: you just need to make sure you do it right the first time because if you mess up your footing there’s really no going back. With some basic tools and materials, and this guide by your side, you’ll be able to knock out this project in just a few hours on the weekend
Take the measurements of the length, width and depth of the wall or walls you will be building.
Take the measurements of the length, width and depth of the wall or walls you will be building. Measure the height of the wall. Then take a second measurement from top to bottom when adding up all your blocks (including caps). This will give you an idea for how high off ground it needs to be set back from any obstacles or objects that may come between it and its surroundings. Take this information with you when purchasing materials so you can accurately calculate what size footing is needed.
Measure widths of individual blocks as well as topsides thicknesses – they are not always consistent.
Purchase enough concrete blocks to complete your project as well as a pallet of preservative-treated 2x6s to use as bracing during construction.
Purchase enough concrete blocks to complete your project as well as a pallet of preservative-treated 2x6s to use as bracing during construction.
You will need one block for each 16-inch section of wall, and two 2x6s per layer of block. For example, if you are building a wall that is 10 feet long but want it to be 20 inches thick (for extra stability), then you would need 260 blocks and 80 2x6s.
Purchase enough 8 foot lengths of reinforcing rod to place one every 16 inches, both vertically and horizontally.
You will need to purchase enough 8 foot lengths of reinforcing rod to place one every 16 inches, both vertically and horizontally. Rebar is used to reinforce concrete and make it stronger, last longer, and more durable.
Call 811 from anywhere in the US to have your local utilities locate and mark underground lines, pipes and cables so you don’t unintentionally dig into or otherwise damage them.
Call 811 from anywhere in the US to have your local utilities locate and mark underground lines, pipes and cables so you don’t unintentionally dig into or otherwise damage them.
This is a free service that’s available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. A trained person will determine where underground lines are located on your property, then mark them with flags or stakes so it’s easy for you to see where not to dig. If you’re planning a major project involving digging (for example: building an addition) it’s important to call 811 at least two weeks before construction begins so that these services can be provided before work begins. Even if the line is marked by someone else, it’s still important for you as the homeowner to make sure that no one accidentally punctures any of those lines throughout construction—even if they’re marked! A shovel could easily puncture any type of pipe or cable buried beneath ground level; even if its location is marked with orange flags attached firmly around each end point of its route in case someone tries moving them out of place while digging nearby.
In order to avoid this scenario altogether while conducting construction onsite yourself without hiring professionals such as ourselves here at [Company Name] who specialize in doing just such work—we recommend taking cautionary measures when using tools like shovels during construction projects which involve digging up dirt where there may be buried pipes/cables because even though we’ve told you how important having access codes like those provided through our company means when dealing with these types
Dig a trench for your footing that is twice as wide as your wall will be thick. The bottom of the trench should be flat and level.
The first step in building a footing is to dig a trench that is twice as wide as your wall will be thick. The bottom of the trench should be flat and level.
This will make sure that the foundation of your block wall is completely solid and stable. You can use tools like a shovel or pickaxe to make this process easier, but if you don’t have any experience with digging in soil before, it’s best to leave this task up to professionals unless you want extra work down the line
Once your hole has been dug, it’s time for another important element: reinforcing rods! These metal rods should be placed horizontally along both sides of each column within your foundation before pouring concrete into them later on down the line (so make sure those corners are secure). This serves two purposes: firstly, it helps prevent cracks from forming later on down there; secondly, because steel expands when heated up during manufacturing processes whereas other metals don’t necessarily expand at all times either way which may lead them break eventually over time without proper support structures being put in place beforehand.”
Pour about 4 inches of gravel for the base layer in your trench and tamp it down until it is level.
- Pour about 4 inches of gravel for the base layer in your trench and tamp it down until it is level. Gravel is a great material to work with because it will provide better drainage and, if you’re using concrete blocks, allow you to move them around easily once they’ve been set. You should be able to find gravel at any home improvement store or landscape supply company; use whatever type seems best suited to your project’s needs.
- Make sure that everything is level before pouring the concrete block wall footings! If not done correctly, the wall could end up sinking into the ground or leaning away from its intended direction when finished.
Lay out your first row of rebar in the trench directly on top of the gravel base making sure it is centered side to side and front to back; use wire ties to secure them together if necessary.
Lay out your first row of rebar in the trench directly on top of the gravel base making sure it is centered side to side and front to back; use wire ties to secure them together if necessary.
The 2×4 should be long enough so that it can be used as a screed board, holding up against the bottom of your frame while you scoop concrete into it. It will help keep your form straight and level as well as provide additional support for the wall’s foundation. To keep rust off your rebar, it’s best to cover them with a damp cloth before pouring any concrete
Use 1/2 inch rebar for additional support if needed.
Pour enough concrete into the trench on top of the rebar to fill all voids between rebar pieces and cover them by 1 inch; screed off excess with a straight 2×4, then float smooth with a magnesium hand floater.
- Pour enough concrete into the trench on top of the rebar to fill all voids between rebar pieces and cover them by 1 inch; screed off excess with a straight 2×4, then float smooth with a magnesium hand floater.
- Lay out three rows of 2x6s over the poured concrete, staggering their ends so that they form an 8-inch-wide walkway in front of each row to make it easier for you to move around as you build up your wall.
- Use these boards as formwork for pouring the next layer or two (see Figure 2). The tops of these boards should be above ground level so that when you pour a fresh new layer of mortar over them, it will create a bond between the old and new layers—this will help prevent cracking in future years when frost shifts its way through your block wall.
Lay out three rows of 2x6s over the poured concrete, equally spaced across its top surface; use these boards as formwork for pouring the next layer or two.
Lay out three rows of 2x6s over the poured concrete, equally spaced across its top surface; use these boards as formwork for pouring the next layer or two. Make sure that each board is level and properly positioned. If you’re using a flat slab, you can use a straight board to screed off excess concrete; if not, use a hand floater to smooth the surface after it has set up enough to support your weight (about an hour). This is where those extra boards come in handy.
If there are any voids under your foundation wall where no footings were laid down, fill them with quick-setting concrete before leveling off the top layer of slabs.
Conclusion
This is what it takes to build a footing for a concrete block wall. You may have many questions about the process, but we hope we were able to answer them for you with this article. Please be sure to check out our other articles and contact us if you have any further questions
