If you’re looking for a door that is both functional and space-saving, you might want to consider installing a pocket door. Pocket doors are normally used in place of a hinged door when there isn’t enough room for the door to swing open or when you don’t want it swinging into the room. In this blog, we will go over how to install a pocket door in your home.
Measure your door opening and cut the header to size.
Measure your door opening and cut the header to size.
Once you’ve determined how wide and tall you want your pocket door to be, it’s time to start measuring for the actual opening. If possible, measure from the top of your door jamb all the way down to where you want the finished flooring level with a pencil or chalk line—this will give you an accurate measurement of how high above where you’ll be placing the bottom rail of your frame (which is what will hold up whatever material that surrounds it). Then, measure from one side of your frame opening across until it hits something solid (such as a stud) in another wall—this tells us how far apart we need to place our jack studs so they can support our header. Once we know this information, we can begin cutting some lumber
Cutting lumber for your header isn’t terribly complicated; just remember that headers are usually wider than most other pieces of wood used in home construction (usually around 6 inches wider per side) so make sure this fact is taken into account when planning out which pieces need to be cut first before moving on with anything else! This is especially important because once those pieces are installed there’s no going back after they’re cut off its long-legged brothers’ shoulders
Determine the height for the header, measure and mark for the header, then cut it to length.
- Measure the height of your wall, including any baseboard that will be around the opening.
- Mark and cut a piece of lumber to this dimension using a circular saw with a miter gauge or a table saw if you have one.
- Install the header by first screwing it into place on top of two studs or joists (preferably in an area with plenty of headroom), then attaching it through where you plan on putting your pocket door frame’s hinge side jamb (this should be within 1/4 inch of the top edge), before finally nailing it into place at each side jamb location (also within 1/4 inch).
Attach your header to the studs.
Now that you’ve marked the wall at 16″ from top of door, it’s time to attach your header. You’ll use a framing gun and 4″ screws to do so.
First, make sure that your header is level and plumb (perpendicular to the ground). To do this, use a level on top of the header board itself and make sure it is in fact level by comparing with another surface nearby or by using math skills like me! If you don’t have any math skills like me, there’s no shame in asking someone else for help with this step—after all, this project is about building walls not math or science! Then check again to ensure that it remains perpendicular by measuring off of opposite ends of each stud (you did measure them earlier right?) with a tape measure while holding up one end against something solid such as an adjacent wall or column (again: if necessary ask someone else). Finally grab some helpers and hold those two ends firmly against each other while checking again just to be sure they’re square before driving those bad boys into place using your trusty framing gun (and hopefully not hitting any bystanders during this process).
Cut the jack studs for the pocket door.
Measure and cut the jack studs for your pocket door to length. Then, use a miter saw to make 45 degree angle cuts on both ends of each jack stud. To make sure that you’re cutting at exactly 45 degrees, use a protractor (or just Google it if you don’t have one handy) to measure the angle and mark it with a framing square.
Add jack studs to hold up the header.
Now that you’ve installed the header, it’s time to add jack studs on the opposite side of the door opening. Install jack studs at the same height as your header and perpendicular to it. Once these are in place, you can fill in any gaps between them and your header with 2×3 blocks called “shoe plates.”
Install drywall around the pocket frame.
Drywall is a great way to finish the wall. It’s easy to install, and you can choose from a variety of textures and finishes.
Drywall comes in different thicknesses (1/4 inch, 1/2 inch and 5/8 inch), so make sure you get drywall that matches the frame size of your pocket door frame.
Drywall comes in either smooth or texture finish; it doesn’t matter which one you choose here because we’ll be covering it with paint later on anyway
There are also different types of boards: greenboard (a moisture-resistant gypsum core) or pink board (which is not moisture resistant). Either one will work for this project if your home has an attic space above where there might be some condensation issues during colder months since water vapor will collect against these boards before getting into other parts like flooring materials below them where moisture could cause damage over time due to inadequate drainage capabilities between layers within wood floors themselves; however greenboard makes installation easier than using plywood sheets because it does not require any special tools like saws – just use screws instead
Pocket doors are a great alternative to normal doors
Pocket doors are a great alternative to traditional doors, because they take up less space and are easier to use. They also add style and design to your home, which can make it more energy efficient. By using pocket doors, you will save money on heating and cooling costs, since the door does not have any moving parts that need power.
Pocket doors come in many different styles. You can get them with traditional woodwork or you can add a touch of modern design by choosing one with glass panels instead of wood panels. You should go with whatever suits the rest of your décor best.
That’s it for today. I hope this guide was helpful, and I’m looking forward to seeing you in the next one.