How To Build Non Load Bearing Wall

If you’re embarking on a home improvement project that requires the addition of non load bearing walls, you’ll want to know everything about how to build them. If you don’t do it right, you could face significant problems—from structural damage to walls that sag, bow, or lean. Building a non load bearing wall is a task that’s best left to professionals with the skill and equipment to ensure your new structure is safe and sound. But if you’re a DIY-er who loves home improvement projects (and one who wants to save some money), the steps below will help get your new wall on track

Determine the Placement of the Wall

Before you can build a non-load bearing wall, you need to determine its placement in relation to your home.

Determine the height of the wall. The most common height for a non-load bearing wall is 8 feet tall, but if you have high ceilings or want more privacy, consider building yours anywhere from 9 feet up to 10 feet tall.
Determine the width of your wall. It’s best not to build your walls any wider than 8 feet; otherwise they’ll take up too much space in an already cramped room and make it feel even smaller than before

Prepare to Frame the Wall

Measuring and Marking

The first step in building a non-load bearing wall is to measure the length and width of the wall to be built. Then you will determine how many studs are needed, plan the layout of your studs, mark your stud layout on your wall, and mark it onto the floor.

Layout the Walls

Your next step is to layout each wall by measuring its length and width carefully in order to get an accurate measurement for placing each stud along with its headers at an equal distance from each other along both sides of their respective walls (see picture). You will also need to make sure that there are no gaps between any two adjacent headers because these can cause problems later when installing drywall or plasterboard over them which could result in cracks appearing around these areas after installation has been completed successfully without fail

Determine Headers and Lintels

Headers and Lintels

The header is the main support for the wall. It’s the piece that carries all of the weight and supports it all above your head. You need to make sure that this piece is strong enough to hold everything up properly, otherwise you’ll have a very bad time trying to sleep at night. The lintel is right above doors or windows, so it needs to be strong enough to support any kind of opening made into a wall. Think about how many times you’ve walked under an archway where there are no walls or columns supporting it—if there were no lintel in place and all of those bricks fell down on top of your head, then we’d probably never see each other again

Cut the Header and Lintels

Cut the Header and Lintels to Size
Cut the Header and Lintels to Correct Height
Cut the Header and Lintels to Correct Length

Cut and Fit Studs

You’ll want to use a stud finder or chalk line to mark the length of the studs. Cut them to size by placing a piece of 1/4-inch plywood between the saw blade and your wood.

Cut the studs to width by measuring how wide you would like them, then subtracting 3/8-inch from that measurement. This will give you enough room for plasterboard sheets later on. Attach one side of each stud with nails (or screws), then fit in place before attaching its opposite side with nails (or screws).

Check for plumb using a level, then check for square using a carpenter’s square or digital angle gauge. Use additional nails or screws if necessary to fix any faults identified by these tests

Attach Plates to Floor and Ceiling

Use a level to ensure your plates are perfectly horizontal, and then mark the locations of your pilot holes. Then drill the pilot holes with a 7/64″ bit.
Attach two 3-1/2″ screws into each plate, making sure they’re snug but not tight as they will be secured further.
With all four plates attached to both floor and ceiling, it’s time for final securing! You’ll need an electric drill along with 2 Philips head or flat-head screws per plate (8 total), an Allen wrench, hammer (if needed), tape measure, level or plumb line that you can use for reference during this process (optional), pencils for marking measurements onto the wall surface around where it meets up with your baseboard trim pieces so you know where exactly how far back from those two lines should line up when attaching everything together later on down the road at home depot if necessary

Nail Studs Between Plates

Now that you have finished attaching the plates to the wall, it is time to install the studs. The studs are used to support the weight of any items you want to hang on your walls. If you are hanging a picture or other decorative piece, you can simply screw them into one of these non load bearing walls without any concern for them falling over because they will be supported by their own weight.

It does not matter whether or not these non load bearing walls are made out of wood or metal; the process for installing each type of material is generally going to be very similar in terms of how many studs need to be placed between each plate and where those studs should go (usually spaced 3 feet apart). This being said, it may be helpful if we go through some examples so that there is no confusion about what needs done when installing either type of material

Verify Wall Plumbness

To ensure that the wall is plumb, use a level to check for plumb. If the wall is not plumb, secure it in place using a hammer and nails. Attach drywall to the frame with screws. Cover any seams with drywall tape and mud, sand smooth any drywall mud and then prime or paint as desired.

Secure the Wall in Place

Use a level to make sure the wall is plumb.
Locate studs in the wall with a stud finder.
Attach the wall to the studs with nails, making sure that it’s straight and secure.

Install Drywall

Use a drywall saw to cut the drywall. The first step of installing any wall is cutting the drywall to fit your space. You can buy drywall saws at most hardware stores or home improvement centers, but you’re also welcome to use an old hacksaw or even a utility knife if you don’t have access to a fresh blade.
Use a hammer and screwdriver to secure the sheet into place. To install your new sheet of drywall onto your wall framing, you’ll need three tools: a hammer, some screws (called screws), and possibly some nails (called nails). When driving these items into the studs behind your wall surface, make sure that they go in at least 3/4 inch deep so that they can support the weight of both walls without snapping off inside them later on down the road when someone accidentally bumps into them while walking through their house looking for snacks after dinner time ended long ago with no recollection as how much time had passed between then and now due to being distracted by something else that caught their eye before noticing where they were going instead of where they’re supposed too

If you want to install room dividers, create rooms within a larger room, or build other interior walls, you may need to know how to build non load bearing walls. Here’s what you’ll need to do.

Frame the wall by driving stakes at each corner of your framing area and then using them as guides for directing two-by-fours in place.
Attach the 2x4s with screws that fit into holes drilled through them from either side of their faces (also known as “nail holes”). Be sure that all 2x4s are positioned plumb (vertically straight).
Drive screws through exterior wall studs into floor joists below. Adhere metal clips over these screws attaching drywall sheets to floor above (use same spacing on both sides).

Conclusion

Depending on your needs and the complexity of your project, you may be able to build non load bearing walls yourself. If you do, make sure to establish a strong foundation and keep the wall plumb during construction. If you have questions about whether or not a wall is load bearing, contact an expert who can help you determine if this project is right for your home or business.