You’ve bought the house of your dreams and started some home improvements to make it your own. You want to build a wall in the basement and you’re not sure if you should use a load bearing wall or not. This can be tricky to figure out, but here are some tried-and-true tips that will help you get through the process:
Measure the area on the ceiling joist
Measure the area on the ceiling joist. Mark out the wall on the floor. Cut the flooring to fit and install it in place, using nails or screws for added strength. Dig out a trench for your footing and lay groundwork for it, compacting and leveling it off as you go. Make formwork from plywood or other materials that will create a sturdy base for your footing, making sure its dimensions are slightly larger than those of your actual footings so that there is room for expansion due to freezing conditions in winter months (you don’t want cracks).
Mark out the wall on the floor
The first step is to mark out the wall on the floor. The wall should be marked out with a chalk line. This will make it easier for you to see how straight and level your wall is before you start building. Make sure that the chalk line is held steady at both ends as you pull it across, this way you can ensure that your wall is completely straight from top to bottom.
You will also want to use a spirit level so that your walls are level with each other, which will help prevent water from leaking through cracks between them if they aren’t quite right up against each other
Cut the flooring
To cut the flooring at an angle, you need to measure the length of each wall and subtract it from your overall flooring length. Once you have this number, divide it by two because there will be two pieces for each wall. The result is how long each piece should be when cut at a 45 degree angle. Make sure that you also subtract 2 inches from this measurement as well so that there is space between the edge of your joist board and where your flooring will be placed (this could vary depending on what type of material).
Next, find out what type of material you’ll be using for your flooring (wood or tile) and determine how thick it needs to be based on its application over load-bearing walls or not – remember: 2x4s are considered adequate supports for drywall but must only be used as headers in non-load bearing areas such as between joists; if they were used under drywall instead then they would need additional support like plywood sheets on top before putting down sheetrock insulation boards starting with 5/8″ Green Glue brand adhesive along with strips around edges before applying silicone caulking instead so that no gaps remain open underneath which could compromise structural integrity causing cracks around edges due to movement created by expansion/contraction cycles during hot/cold weather conditions like summer heat waves causing these materials shrink while winter months bring cold temperatures which cause them expand causing stress points where they bend under pressure until finally breaking apart leaving holes through walls big enough for rodents or insects like termites inside because nobody wants those things living inside their home since once one gets access then others will follow
Dig out a trench
Once you have the new wall location marked, dig out a trench for the foundation wall. This can be done with a shovel and spade or by renting a digging machine to do it for you. You want to make sure that the ground is level before installing your load bearing wall because if it isn’t level, then your basement floor will slant in one direction or another and create an uneven surface.
Go ahead and remove all of the dirt from this section of yard space so that there are no large rocks or tree roots left behind when you install your load bearing wall. If there are any large rocks left behind after excavation, then use steel rebar rods (rebar) to secure them into place so they don’t shift around during construction work on top of them later on down the road!
Lay the groundwork for your footing
The footing is the foundation of your wall, which will be built on top of it. This means it needs to be constructed with care and attention to detail.
The footing should be at least 6 inches deep. You’ll want to excavate down into the soil so that there’s enough space for your foundation (and any insulation you may have decided upon) below ground level.
The footing should be level, as this will ensure that both ends are in line with each other when they’re joined together later on in the project.
The footing should also be 6 inches wide; this will allow you enough space for two concrete blocks stacked vertically on top of each other without having them overlap or crack due to excessive pressure being placed upon them from above during construction work (this would weaken their structural integrity).
Compact and level it off
Once the concrete has been poured and leveled, use a tamper to compact it. Then, use a spirit level to ensure that the floor is completely level before smoothing out any areas with which you are not satisfied.
This process should be repeated for each wall in your basement as well as for any columns or beams you have installed (if applicable).
Create formwork for your footing
Once you have your footing level and straight, use a spirit level to make sure it’s level. If you don’t have a spirit level, a small piece of wood or metal will work just as well.
Before cutting the footing, be sure to get it exactly where you want it. This is one of those times when being patient pays off because it’s not worth fixing up once the concrete has been poured in place.
It’s also important that your foundation walls are plumb (straight up and down), so make sure they’re set properly before pouring any concrete into them
Pour the concrete
Now that the blocks are in place, you can begin pouring concrete. In order to ensure that the walls are strong enough to hold up your new addition, it’s important to take careful measurements and follow a set of instructions for making sure you get the job done right.
The first step is mixing cement, sand and gravel together in a wheelbarrow or concrete mixer. Add water slowly while stirring with a shovel until you have a consistent mixture of about 1:3:6 (concrete:sand:gravel). You’ll want to make sure this ratio is correct as adding too much water will result in weak concrete walls that may not support their intended load-bearing capacity over time.
Level it off and ensure it’s smooth
When you’re ready to pour your concrete, use a spirit level to ensure that everything is level. Use a trowel to smooth the surface and remove excess material. Some people use brooms for this, but I prefer to use a brush because it prevents water from getting into the gaps between bristles. If you’re using a broom or brush, make sure you clean up any messes with a hose once the concrete has set up.
After smoothing out your floor and ensuring it’s level, you’ll want to wet down the surface of your garage floor before pouring any concrete on it in order to prevent cracks from forming later on in its life span (these occur due to evaporation). A spray bottle will work just fine for this task; simply spray water onto each section of flooring before laying down new slabs or pouring more concrete over existing one
Measure and cut your posts to size
- Measure the wall you want to build.
- Cut your two posts to size with a saw and mallet, being sure to use a spirit level for accuracy. If you don’t have access to a saw and mallet, you can hire someone from TaskRabbit or other service marketplace like it who will come over and do this for you for about $50 per hour (depending on where in the world you live).
- Drill holes through each post at both ends making sure not to drill into your basement ceiling above, or into an adjacent wall if there is one nearby! Keep in mind that when using drywall screws they need something behind them as leverage when being driven into place so make sure not too much space separates these holes from whatever surface they may be attached against; otherwise they’ll just pop right out again once there’s no more room left inside their threads (which could happen quite easily since there isn’t any extra material left after they’re inserted).
Install the posts into position on your footing trench
- Ensure the posts are installed at the right height.
- Ensure the posts are level.
- Ensure the posts are straight.
- Ensure the posts are plumb (vertically aligned).
- Ensure the posts are square (at right angles with each other).
Attach the ties to your concrete wall and posts
The next step is to attach the ties to your posts and concrete walls. You can do this with nails, or screws. It’s important that both ends of each tie are level with each other, so use a spirit level to make sure they’re straight and level before nailing or screwing them in place.
Use a spirit level to make sure everything is straight and level, then nail in place.
Use a spirit level to make sure everything is straight and level, then nail in place.
The last step is to use a spirit level to make sure that the wall is straight and level. If you don’t have one, use your eye as a guide for this step. Mark where each stud will be placed on the floor with chalk or pencil so that you know exactly where they need to go when installing them on top of the concrete blocks.
Measure up from the floor, then draw a line along each post before cutting them off with a saw.
Once you’ve laid out the first post, measure up from the floor and draw a line along each post. Then use a saw to cut them off at this height. It’s important that all four posts are straight and level before continuing with your framing, so check them now (and again later) for accuracy. If you find that one or more posts need adjusting by shaving away some of their length, use a circular saw or keyhole saw to trim them down as needed until they’re straight and level.
By following this how to guide, you can build a load bearing wall yourself.
If you want to build your own load bearing wall, here’s what you need to do:
- Use a spirit level to make sure the post is straight and level.
- Use a saw to cut the posts according to the size indicated on your plans.
- Use a spirit level again and make sure that it’s still straight and level
Conclusion
Armed with the knowledge and instructions highlighted in this guide, you should now be equipped to build load bearing walls for your home. The next step is to get started
