When remodeling a bathroom or building a new one, it’s best to choose what kind of shower enclosure you want before installing any framing for the walls. The type of shower enclosure you choose can affect the overall size of your shower and how big your half wall needs to be. For example, if you’re installing a frameless glass door in front of a bathtub, then the finished wall size needs to match the required opening in your glass door. If you’re building a full-height half wall, you can use this opening as an excuse to build out that section of drywall another 1/2 inch or so beyond the tub decking and add tile up to that point.
Step 1 Rough-In the Shower Drain
Before you can install the shower, you’ll need to rough-in the plumbing. There are two main components of this project: installing a drain and roughing in a water line.
- The drain is installed below the floor; this will allow water to drain away from your house so there is no leakage into your basement or other areas of your home. This pipe must be connected to an existing waste line before it’s possible for you to add a new shower valve and faucet.
- The water line is attached to either 3/4″ or 1/2″ copper pipe that goes from under your sink through the wall into the shower area where it connects with valves that control water flow through each individual fixture (such as faucets). By using flexible connectors such as PEX tubing instead of rigid pipes, these connections can easily be made without needing any welding skills whatsoever—it’s simply a matter of connecting one end with another piece via slips on both ends which are then crimped together tightly enough so they don’t leak but not too tight so they don’t come apart again easily when needed later on down the road.”
Step 2 Install the Prefab Walls
- Install the Walls.
- Make sure the walls are level, plumb and square.
- Install the door header. Make sure it’s level, plumb and square as well!
Step 3 Cut a Tile Opening in the Shower Wall
- Using a tile saw, cut the opening for your tile.
- Make sure that you cut it level with the bottom of the shower wall and in the correct size.
- If a piece of broken tile breaks, you can replace it.
Step 4 Cut the Cement Board Out for the Shower Door
The cement board is now ready to be cut out for the shower door. Before you do this, make sure to leave a space for your door to open in front of the half wall. You may need to plan ahead and have someone hold down the hose while you cut the cement board with a jigsaw or circular saw so it doesn’t move around too much during cutting.
- Make sure that the cement board is straight along both sides of where you want to make cuts. If there were any issues with how it was installed, now would be a great time to fix them.
- Once everything looks good, measure up from one end at an angle (like an upside down “L”) and mark three lines across each side: one line at 4″ high, another line at 7-1/2″ high, and then another line at 9-1/2″ high (this last line should align with where your bathroom floor meets). Use these lines as guides when making your cuts; don’t forget about safety goggles. If possible do not use power tools for this step since this part requires precision work.”
Step 5 Install the Door Header
Next, install the door header and door. The larger side of the shower door frame should be facing outwards. Install the door frame and trim with screws or nails. Also, measure and cut 3/4 inch plywood to create a new outer frame for your half wall so it will match your new doorway dimensions.
Install an exterior doorstop in each corner of your shower opening to ensure water doesn’t drip onto hardwood floors or other parts of your home as it leaves through this opening. You may want to consider installing a bathroom mat on top of these stops as well—this will keep them from getting wet when you’re not using them.
Next, install any additional features such as lockset handles or deadbolts on both sides of your half wall so that there’s access from outside into the bathroom area if needed (for instance: when someone needs assistance getting out). It’s also possible they’ll use one side while someone else uses another; either way works. Finally add any necessary trim pieces near where these things go so they look nice too .
Step 6 Attach Shims to Studs
Start by attaching the shims. Shimming is a crucial step to ensure the wall is level, plumb, and well-supported. This is where you’ll be using those extra pieces of plywood. Lay them over top of the drywall and use your hammer to attach them to the studs with nails or screws.
Next, place another layer of drywall on top of this one so that it matches up with all four sides of your half wall and screw it down in place using drywall screws.
Step 7 Install Cap Blocks and Half-Wall Elevations
With your studs in place, you’re almost ready to install drywall. Cap blocks (also called furring strips) are placed over the studs to support the drywall and hold everything in place. Half-wall elevations are then placed on top of the cap blocks every 16 inches or so. These should be about 3/4″ thick for each drywall layer. If you plan on installing plywood and not laying several layers of plaster board over them (which is what most people do), make sure that your ½” plywood sheets measure at least ¾” wider than your ¾” studs so they fit snugly into place without any gaps showing between them.
If you’re using drywall instead of plaster board (and most people will), cut out a part of it that will be behind the door opening and around where your shower head will go once installed later on after tiling has been completed; otherwise it won’t fit into those spaces properly when everything is done
Step 8 Finish Sheathing and Drywall the Half Wall
You will now want to finish sheathing and drywall the half wall. You can use a variety of tools for this. The most common are:
- A drywall saw (for cutting large pieces)
- A utility knife (for cutting small pieces)
- A drywall knife (to bevel the edge of your cuts)
Tip – Build a Vaulted Ceiling Over a Tub Area
If you have a tub area in your bathroom and need to add more height, consider building a vaulted ceiling over the tub area. This can be done with a drywall ceiling or with a wood ceiling. Either way, it’s an inexpensive way to add some character and style to your bathroom without breaking the bank.
If you want something that looks more custom, you can use wood for this project as well. You will need to cut the rafters for your vaulted ceiling out of 2×4 lumber and attach them in place with screws from below. You can then install drywall around them or even stain or paint them if desired.
Sometimes you can go halfsies on things.
Sometimes you can go halfsies on things.
Half walls are a great way to add more space to your bathroom. They provide both privacy and storage, which makes them an excellent choice for small bathrooms that need both elements. However, they do have some drawbacks as well: they take up more space, require more materials and cost more money than other types of walls do. Additionally, when you install half walls in your home or office building with mold growth concerns (such as those found in many parts of the country), you must be careful not to allow moisture levels within the structure to rise too high so that mold does not grow behind the wall surface itself; if this happens then mold spores may spread throughout your property quickly.
So, there you have it. Not the easiest job in the world, but there are advantages to doing it yourself. You can always hire a contractor if you just want to get it done and get on with your life. But if you’re up for a challenge and some hard work, this is one way to save some money while still getting what you want.