How To Frame A Corner For Drywall

Framing your house is the first step in completing the structure of your home. The process typically begins with framing a corner, and then expanding from there. Read on to learn how to frame a corner for drywall.

Measure the wall from end to end.

You will need to measure from corner to corner, on both sides of the wall.

Measure your wall from end to end with a tape measure. You will use this measurement later when cutting the top plate pieces for each side of the frame. This can be done using a basic tape measure or by using special framing tools like a laser level and bubble level, which are designed specifically for measuring square walls and corners.
Use these measurements to cut all four top plates so they are exactly equal in size. If you have purchased lumber that has already been cut down into 2-by-4s, it may not be necessary for you personally to do any additional cutting before proceeding with framing your corner area; however, if your lumber came in longer lengths (such as 4-by-8s), then you’ll need at least one more tool: A miter saw will help make quick work of cutting these boards down into shorter lengths required by this project’s design specifications

Mark the stud locations on the wall.

Marking the stud locations on your wall:

Use a tape measure to mark the stud locations, starting at one corner of the room and working toward your other corner (or vice versa). You’ll have to move around a bit as you work, but this method ensures that both sides of your wall will be level with each other.
Use a level to make sure your studs are level before marking them with chalk or a laser leveler and then mark them using either tools or by using masking tape to indicate where the center of each stud is located on your drywall sheets; once they’re marked, cut into the drywall where indicated by these markings.

Use a chalk line to snap a guideline for the studs on the wall.

Snap a chalk line on each wall as well.
The chalk line should be at least 3 inches from the corner (but no more than 6).
The centerline of the line should be at least 1/2 inch from the edge of the wall, and not more than 1 inch away from it.
Measure your walls from end to end, including any door or window openings, then mark where the studs are located on each wall with penciled lines (or use a level) so that you know where to nail them later.

Cut a 2×4 to length, and nail it along the guideline.

To cut a 2×4 to length, use a circular saw. The board should be at least 8 feet long. Use a chalk line to snap a guideline for the studs on one wall. Measure from the edge of your last stud mark to where you want this stud to go, and mark that point along the guideline with your pencil or marker. Nail one end of the 2×4 into place using 16d nails every 16 inches along its length. Then nail it into place at the end by driving two nails through each side of the board and into your framing lumber; again, use 16d nails for best results!

Repeat this process until all of your framing lumber has been attached in this way; then continue building out toward other corners as necessary until you have framed up as far as is feasible without risking hitting pipes or electrical cables that may run behind walls (more info).

Nail through the 2×4 into the floor and ceiling with 16d nails, every 16 inches.

When you’re framing a corner, it’s important to nail through the 2×4 into the floor and ceiling. You can use a regular hammer and 16d nails, but it will take longer than using a nail gun. A nail gun will speed up the process and make sure you don’t miss any spots. When using a nail gun with an adjustable depth setting on it, set it so that when you drive in your 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ wood studs they come out at exactly 1 1/2″. Use galvanized or stainless steel nails for drywall work because these materials won’t corrode like ordinary mild steel does. If you’re building something where corrosion isn’t an issue, such as a concrete block wall or cinder block wall then use powder actuated fasteners instead which are designed specifically for hard materials such as concrete blocks but keep in mind that these types of screws cost more than standard drywall fasteners like 16d common nails which are much cheaper but also less effective at holding up against heavy loads such as those found within commercial buildings that use lots of steel beams throughout their structure (including stairway landings).

Repeat until all studs are in place.

Make sure the studs are straight and level.
Make sure the studs are spaced evenly.
Make sure the studs are level with each other.
Make sure the studs are level with the floor or flooring surface of your choice (if there is one).
Make sure the studs are level with the ceiling or ceiling surface of your choice (if there is one).

Measure and cut top plates, as needed.

Measure the distance from the top of the stud to the ceiling.
Cut a piece of sheetrock to length and attach it to your top plate with nails or screws.
Check that your corner is level by placing a level on each side and adjusting until they’re even.

Attach top plates to the top of each stud using nails or screws.

Top Plates are the horizontal pieces that are nailed to the top of each stud, like a picture frame. They should be cut at an angle out of 1/2″ plywood and notched at every corner so they can fit around the studs. If you’re using a jig saw, use a metal blade for accurate cuts, as wood is much harder than drywall cardboard (which is why you can’t just use your drywall knife). Nail them in place every 16 inches along their length with 8d common nails.

Easy corner framing

Corner framing is the process of creating a box around a corner, so that you have a solid surface to place drywall on for your walls and ceilings. It’s an important step in any construction project, but especially when installing drywall as it will be one of the most visible parts of your home once completed.

Here are some basic steps you can follow:

Cut two pieces of 2 x 6 lumber to length using your circular saw. These will be used as top and bottom braces; remember that they should overlap the sheets by at least 1″.
Position the first brace perpendicular to your joist directly below where it meets another beam or stud (or hammer tack nails into place if necessary). The second one should go right next to it—you’ll nail these together later with two 16d common nails per end piece.

Conclusion

If you follow these steps, you’ll have a properly measured and framed corner in no time! In fact, it’s really just about as easy as it sounds. And, when you’re done, your wall will be ready for drywall installation. Happy framing